Maintenance Guide
Lint screen every load. Full vent ductwork once a year. This isn't optional — it's a fire hazard.
| Frequency | What to do |
|---|---|
| Every load | Empty the lint trap (a half-full screen reduces airflow 40%) |
| Every 6 months | Vacuum the lint trap housing with a long-hose attachment |
| Every 12 months | Clean the entire vent duct from the dryer to the exterior vent |
| Every 12 months | Inspect the exterior vent hood — it should open when the dryer runs and close when it's off |
| Every 5 years | Replace any flexible foil/vinyl ducting with rigid metal duct (foil is a fire hazard) |
DIY brush kit $20-$30. Professional cleaning $100-$200/year. Replacing flexible duct with rigid $50-$150 in materials.
The U.S. Fire Administration attributes ~15,000 house fires per year to dryer lint — typically clogged vents that overheat the dryer. Most happen in homes where the vent was last cleaned 3+ years ago, or never.
Some people do, but it's risky. The high-pressure air can damage the duct, blow lint into hidden cavities, and miss compacted clogs that a brush would catch. The $25 brush kit is faster and safer.
They trap lint in their ridges far more than smooth rigid ducts, and the foil material can ignite under prolonged heat. Most building codes now require rigid metal duct (or rigid 'semi-rigid' aluminum) for new installations.
Maximum 25 feet straight (per IRC code). Subtract 5 feet for each 90-degree elbow. So a vent with two elbows can be at most 15 feet long. Longer runs require booster fans or dedicated outside venting.
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